Assam

Assam has long been a meeting point of many peoples, sometimes described as a living museum of man. Northeast India is an ethnic mosaic of tribal groups, each with its own dialect, customs and practices. The Bodos make up nearly half of the tribal population, followed by the Mishing, Karbi, Rabha, Sonowal Kachari, Lalung and Deori, with smaller groups such as the Chutia, Moran, Mech, Tiwa, Garo, Sarania, Hajong, Tripuri, Thengal, Hojai and Koch.

In this multicultural setting, textiles are a key point of reference. Spinning and handloom weaving have deep roots in the region. The native silks (muga, eri and paat), the handlooms and backstrap looms, the distinctive woven designs and the characteristic ways of dressing all express Assam's intangible heritage. Women traditionally wear the two-piece Mekhela and Chador, with a third piece, the Riha, for ceremonies. Formal occasions call for headdresses such as the Bodo Joki, and the white-and-red Gamosha serves as both headdress and everyday scarf.

Written records of these traditions are sparse, so oral history, folklore, music and living practice carry much of the evidence for the region's weaving and design. Assam: A Journey Through Its Textiles documents the history of the state's textiles and tribes through carefully researched text and more than 150 photographs.